School Under a Metro Bridge – in colour

I have been following the progress of Mr Rajesh Kumar Sharma’s  School Under a Metro Bridge in Delhi since 2012 and I thought I should share some of my colour work to complement the earlier all black and white images in the original post and do have a look at the school’s Facebook page, meanwhile enjoy the pics below!

Two boys walk towards the school under a metro bridge in the morning

A boy sweeps the ground in front of the blackboards before class begins at the school
Children play on the foam mats before the teachers arrive at the school
Rajesh Kumar Sharma (centre) and other teachers at the blackboards at the school

Anil Kumar Lal a volunteer teacher teaches children etiquette and politeness among other things
A child jumps for joy as classes end and he leaves the school
9 year old Ravi Kumar does his homework on a charpoy at his home on the Yamuna Bank

Method: all natural light, Nikon D700 and D3s


Simon de Trey-White’s new website!

An image form my documentary project 'Delhi's Last Urban Elephant's' as featured on my new website
An image form my documentary project ‘Delhi’s Last Urban Elephant’s’ as featured on my new website

Getting around to making my new website was something I’d been putting off for ages, then, largely due to the encouragement (AKA hectoring!) of Stuart Freedman,  I finally buckled down to doing it as a result of productive mentoring sessions with him. I’d forgotten what hard work it is but also how rewarding it can be and although the digital world rules in most areas of life it was interesting to find that when it comes to sorting the sequences of images for a website or a book, – physical prints on the floor is still the best way to go.

Rearranging physical prints is still the best way to decide on running orders and what goes with what
Rearranging physical prints is still the best way to decide on running orders and what goes with what. Stuart Freedman at work in my Delhi flat

Editing your own work dispassionately is extremely  difficult and having an independent, experienced colleague to hand is essential when it comes to hard calls of what stays and what goes, many ‘robust’ (but always good-natured) conversations  were had!

Regarding the website construction itself I found working with the Photoshelter ‘Beam’ templates to be more difficult than I’d anticipated. This is because the way the individual templates work and how they differ from each other is not set out in a detailed enough way (for me and that I could find)  so I had experiment with one template after another until  I found the one that met my needs best  this wasted a lot of time and there was hair-pulling..

However now that its done I’m really pleased with it and if you missed the subtle link to my new website above here’s a blatant one: Simon de Trey-White’s new website please have a look and let me know what you think in the comments or on Twitter where I am ShootIndia.




Strange Fruit

Labourer Sohan Lal (55) holds passport sized images of his daughter Murti (right) and niece Pushpa (left) in Katra Sadatganj village,Ushait near Baduan, Uttar Pradesh, India on the 30th May 2014.
Labourer Sohan Lal (55) holds passport sized images of his daughter Murti (right) and niece Pushpa (left) who were raped and hanged in Katra Sadatganj village,  Uttar Pradesh, India.  30th May 2014.

Sohan Lal’s  tiny bird-like frame shook with emotion as he fumbled a series of passport-sized images from a pocket to show us. The first were simple portraits of his daughter Murti and niece Pushpa, I asked him to hold them in his scarred, stained hands that spoke eloquently of a hard life as an agricultural labourer at the bottom of India’s caste system and took six frames quickly. The next images showed the same girls, one dressed in green, the other in vibrant pink, hanging from a tree on the edge of the village. The girls’ heads tilted slightly downwards where the nooses fashioned from their own scarves dug into their throats. It was truly shocking and by far the most disturbing image I’ve seen during  my 7 years in India.

One can only guess then what Sohan had felt shortly before sunrise on Wednesday 28th May 2014 when he was taken to the orchard of 13 mango trees and shown what had befallen his daughter Murti and niece Pushpa.

Sohan Lal (55) father of raped and murdered daughter teenager Murti (11 or 12) weeps and is comforted by his mother Ramkali
Sohan Lal (55) father of raped and murdered  teenage daughter Murti (11 or 12) weeps as he is comforted by his mother Ramkali

“We had gone there at 4.30am,” said Sohan. “The police had said they were dead and hanging. The police would not let us take the bodies down. We did not get them until 4.30pm.”

India is once again reeling. Eighteen months after the gang-rape and murder of physiotherapy student in Delhi reverberated around the world and set in motion an unprecedented debate about the safety of women, the country is confronting more horror.

At around 7pm on Tuesday 27th May, Sohan’s daughter, Murti, and his niece Pushpa, the two of them aged between 12 and 14 though the family said they could not be precise, had gone to the fields to relieve themselves. This was the usual practice, said the family; like hundreds of millions of Indians, Sohan’s family had no proper lavatory and they visited the surrounding land under the sliver of privacy provided by darkness. A woman would always be accompanied by a sister or friend. But on Tuesday, the two girls did not return. When the family reported them missing to the police, they were told to go away and may even have been abused about their low-caste status. Finally, they were directed to the spreading mango trees a few hundred metres from their home. The girls had been seized, gang-raped and hanged. A post-mortem examination concluded they had been alive when the nooses were put around their necks.

The village of Katra Sadatganj is located in Uttar Pradesh (UP), about 150 miles south-east of Delhi and it took us around 7 hours to drive there from Delhi due to the (mostly) poorly constructed and maintained roads. We arrive in the 45 degree heat of the middle of the day to witness a full-blown media circus and to swell its ranks. Dozens of mobile broadcast vans from India’s numerous TV news channels encircle the grove of mangrove trees where the girls had died while seemingly the entire (mostly male)  population of the village milled around in their thousands generating a choking cloud of dust as they watched the TV anchors doing pieces to camera.

The grove of mango trees in which the two girls were hanged thronged by mainly male villagers and media in Katra Sadatganj
The grove of mango trees in which the two girls were hanged thronged by mainly male villagers and media in Katra Sadatganj

The community of farmers in Katra grows vegetables, wheat and mint, there are almost no amenities and the village receives just one hour a day of electricity. During the week of the attack the transformer was broken so there was none.

Sohan’s family belongs to the maurya caste, which sits close to the very bottom of India’s traditional social structure. By contrast, the three accused attackers – brothers Pappu Yadav, Awadhesh Yadav and Urvesh Yadav – and members of the police force, are from the Yadav caste. While technically also a lower caste, the Yadavs are powerful across large swathes of northern India and in Katra Sadatganj they are considered the dominant group. Lower-caste villagers said whenever there was a dispute with a Yadav, the police would always side with the Yadavs. The Yadavs have powerful patronage from the party which runs the state government in UP, the Samajwadi Party. During India’s recent election campaign, the head of the party, Mulayam Singh Yadav, sparked controversy by saying rapists should not receive the death penalty because “boys will be boys”.

Two men pass time in the shade in Katra Sadatganj village

An uncle of the two girls, Babrao, said he had been in the fields when the girls went out and heard them screaming. Flashing a torch in the direction of the noise, he said the beam fell upon the face of Pappu Yadav, who was one of several men grabbing the girls. He said he scuffled with him until Mr Yadav raised a pistol. At that point he ran home and raised the alarm.

“They are Yadavs. They are the dominant community. They are goons,” he said.

The attack has drawn attention to the dark reality of life for millions in rural India – a place where caste still remains the dominant determiner  of how someone will live, work and marry. Like the family of Sohan, an estimated 620m Indians – around half the population – are every day obliged to participate in so-called open defecation because of the lack of proper sanitation. Campaigners point out the huge social and economic costs to a country where girls are dissuaded form going to school because there are insufficient lavatories and the stigma and dangers confronted by those obliged to squat in the dust. They say lower caste families are even less likely to have a toilet.

“The [lack of] toilets is a problem We have to go outside,” said Om Vati, a mother of six from a lower caste family, who lived close to the home of Sohan. “Only the upper castes have toilets.”

Women in Katra village talk about their day-to-day lives
Women in Katra village talk about the difficulties of their day-to-day lives,  without access to proper sanitation they are forced into open defecation and  so run the risk of abuse and attack

The very next person we speak to is from the Yadav caste and when asked if his family has a toilet, says “We have two bathrooms.”

Beena Pallical of the National Campaign on Dalit Human Rights, said police routinely refused to investigate cases of sexual assaults against lower-caste women. Often, she said, attacks would take place after a young woman from a lower caste community took up a place in college or something else a dominant caste considered inappropriate.

30th May 2014, Ushait, India. Villagers and media throng the home of the teenage girls raped and murdered in Katra Sadatganj village, Ushait near Baduan, Uttar Pradesh, India on the 30th May 2014.
Villagers and media mob the home of the murdered teenage girls in Katra Sadatganj village, 30th May 2014.

Down narrow alleys and past open sewers we navigate to Sohan Lal’s humble home that he shared with his wife and extended family. There, after battling through a press of onlookers we find Atul Saxena, a senior police officer telling the still-stunned family that two officers had been fired and were being investigated for both negligence and conspiring with the accused. He said he had never before handled such a brutal case.

Yet asked if caste had played a role, in either the crime itself or the response of his officers, he said it had not. He claimed that according to India’s constitution, caste discrimination had been outlawed. “Everyone is equal.” However Sridevi, mother of Murti and Sohan’s wife tells a different story.

‘When we went to report our daughter missing the first thing the police wanted to know was what caste we were, when we told them  they sent us away and told us to stop bothering them’

30th May 2014, Ushait, India. SSP (Senior Superintendant of Police) Atul Saxena briefs Sridevi (40) mother of Murti gang-raped and murdered in Katra Sadatganj village on the progress of the investigation, Katra Sadatganj, Ushait near Baduan, Uttar Pradesh, India on the 30th May 2014. SSP (Senior Superintendant of Police) Atul Saxena briefs Sridevi (40) mother of Murti and Aunt of Pushpa, on the progress of the investigation
SSP (Senior Superintendant of Police) Atul Saxena briefs Sridevi (40) mother of Murti and Aunt of Pushpa, on the progress of the investigation

Five men were quite quickly arrested for the crime, three from a local Yadav family and the two policemen. Recent reports say defence attorneys are now making counter-claims accusing the girls’ family’s of some involvement.

A view of the locked farmhouse of the three brothers (Avadesh, Urvesh and Pappu Yadav) accused in the rape and murder of two teenage girls in Katra Sadatganj village
A view of the locked farmhouse of the three brothers (Avadesh, Urvesh and Pappu Yadav) accused in the rape and murder of two teenage girls in Katra Sadatganj village

Later, after the crowd dispersed a little and we could sit with the family members quietly, I noticed a fan made by Pushpa that she’d written her name on.

A fan made by Pushpa (13-14) gang-raped and murdered in Katra Sadatganj village bears her name in her own writing (upper right)
A fan made by Pushpa (13-14) gang-raped and murdered in Katra Sadatganj village bears her name in her own writing (upper right)

All to soon we had to think of leaving but in the last five minutes I noticed a rare group of women standing in quiet vigil below the mango tree in which Murti and Pushpa had been hanged.

A small group of women stand vigil beneath the mango tree from which the girls were hanged
A small group of women and girls stand vigil beneath the mango tree from which the girls were hanged

On a personal level it was one of those intense and eventful days that will  linger long in the mind.  The heat, the dust, the raw grief and the crowds – everywhere we went in the village we were trailed by a minimum 30 or 40 men and boys interested to watch us. Though it was not threatening the fact that they were wondering what all the fuss was about spoke volumes about what had happened. On our long, slow return journey to Delhi we encountered the same storm of biblical intensity that had swept through Delhi earlier killing several people. Strong winds whipped up a blinding dust storm, downed trees fell onto the road like skittles  then thunder, lightning and heavy rain followed. Coming upon a motorcyclist badly injured by a fallen tree we ferried him to a hospital for treatment.

This assignment was commissioned by The Independent and appeared on the front page of their Sunday issue on the first of June and I am indebted to The Independent’s Asia Correspondent Andrew Buncombe for his kind permission allowing me to borrow heavily from his excellent report for this blog post.  My images from this story have been used by many other publications since, most notably Time magazine who ran a slideshow of images online as well as featuring an image in Time’s Best Pictures of the Week on June 6th and in the hard copy of the magazine on the 16th June in the World Briefing section.

Method: all natural light, Nikon D700 and D3s









Dongria Kondh vanquish Vedanta


A Dongria Kondh tribesman with forest axe
A Dongria Kondh tribesman with forest axe

The Dongria Kondh tribe’s struggle against Vedanta Resources began in 1997 after the first agreement was reached between the Odisha government and a subsidiary of Vedanta for a mine to extract 78 million tonnes of bauxite from beneath the Niyamgiri mountain forests. The plan was the brainchild of Vedanta boss Anil Agarwal one of India’s richest men who started his business in Mumbai in 1976 as a scrap-metal dealer. When Vedanta started to build a vast aluminium refinery at the foot of  Niyamgiri to process the bauxite,  protests erupted after many Dongria were forced to leave their homes and their traditional lifestyle to make way for the construction. The evictions infuriated the Dongria who feared for their way of life that was inextricably linked with ‘Niyamraja’, the sacred hill they worshipped as their provider and deity. The protests led to a series of legal challenges to halt the mining plans which culminated with a Supreme Court order for the villagers themselves to decide on the £1 billion mine investment in a series of votes. The Daily Telegraph commissioned me to accompany their journalist, Dean Nelson, to Lakhapadar village in the Nyamgiri Hills on the 7th August 2013 to witness the final vote at the tenth and largest of 12 village council (Gram Sabha) meetings. The several hundred Dongria Kondh tribespeople who attended the meeting confirmed the trend of earlier polls and unanimously voted to reject the mine plan and in January 2014 India’s environment ministry officially rejected the proposal by Vedanta Resources to mine in Niyamgiri. It was a privilege to be present at this final stunning victory and I can only agree with Michael Palin who was quoted later as saying “I hope it will send a signal to the big corporations that they can never assume that might is right. It’s a big victory for the little people.”

On the day of the vote we trekked through the thick forest along with several hundred heavily armed paramilitary police there to protect the judge appointed to record the decision after the government alleged the area had become ‘infested’ by Maoist insurgents. The tribesmen say the claim is false and the government has used it to justify a campaign of intimidation against them. This accusation appeared to be corroborated when the Telegraph reporter and I were detained by police intelligence officers and a local campaigner was summoned to their headquarters in Bhawanipatna for questioning and denounced as a ‘foreign agent’ for assisting us. Happily the detention was not for very long and we were finally allowed to leave.

Thanks are due to  Dean Nelson for his kind permission to borrow from his report which can be found here and below are more images from the day.

Villagers, security forces and media arrive at Lakhapadar village
Villagers, security forces and media arrive at Lakhapadar village
View of  Lakhapadar village in the Niyamgiri Hills
View of Lakhapadar village in the Niyamgiri Hills
Dongria Kondha villagers observe and listen to proceedings from inside the Gram Sabha meeting hall
Dongria Kondh villagers observe and listen to proceedings from inside the Gram Sabha meeting hall
Sikuka Sani (26) a Dongria Kondha tribesman passionately voices his objections to the Vedanta mining operation inside the Gram Sabha meeting hall in Lakhapadar
Sikuka Sani (26) a Dongria Kondh tribesman passionately voices his objections to the Vedanta mining operation inside the Gram Sabha meeting hall in Lakhapadar
Sikaka Kunji (50) a woman of the Dongria Kondha tribe demonstrates with her axe how she would resist the Vedanta mining operation
Sikaka Kunji (50) a woman of the Dongria Kondh tribe demonstrates with her axe how she would resist the Vedanta mining operation
A girl of the Dongria Kondh tribe listens to proceedings from the Gram Sabha meeting hall in Lakhapadar village  in the Niyamgiri Hills on the 7th August 2013
A girl of the Dongria Kondh tribe listens to proceedings from the Gram Sabha meeting in Lakhapadar village in the Niyamgiri Hills on the 7th August 2013
Villagers observe and listen to proceedings from outside  the Gram Sabha meeting hall in Lakhapadar village
Villager in Lakhapadar village

Kumti Marji (60), head of Niyamgiri Suraksha Samiti (Association for the Safeguard of Niyamgiri Hills), in Lakhapadar village on the 7th August 2013

Kumti Marji (60), head of Niyamgiri Suraksha Samiti (Association for the Safeguard of Niyamgiri Hills), in Lakhapadar village
View of Lakhapadar village
View of Lakhapadar village
This wooden framework in Lakhapadar village delineates a shrine to the Dongria Kondh's deity called Niyam Raja (literally 'law-king') in Lakhapadar village,
This wooden framework in Lakhapadar village delineates a shrine to the Dongria Kondh’s deity called Niyam Raja (literally ‘law-king’)

Method: all natural light, Nikon D700 and D3s








The Other Taj Mahal

Mr Faisal Hasan Quadri, 77,walks away from the Taj-Mahal inspired mausoleum he  built for his late wife Begum Tajmulli
Mr Faisal Hasan Quadri, 77,walks away from the Taj-Mahal inspired mausoleum he built for his late wife Begum Tajmulli

Villagers made fun of former postmaster Faisal Quadri when he first began building a Taj Mahal replica on the land next to his house but no more, now he commands respect in the sleepy village in rural Uttar Pradesh. He refers to the monument as ‘yaadgaar’ meaning ‘in memory of’ and he built it to honour the wife he loved for 60 years, Begum Tajmulli, who died on the 23rd September 2011 aged 73. Quadri, a retired postal clerk began work on the tomb resembling a miniature Taj Mahal, 5 months after Begum died, in February 2012. He has so far spent 9 lakhs (approx £10,000) on it which he has largely funded by sellng a parcel of land. There’s more to do to complete the structure and Qadri, 77, admits that it does not stand comparison to Shah Jahan’s marble mausoleum. But his heart is surely the equal of the 17th-century Mughal ruler in its devotion to his late wife.

Mr Quadri sits on the wall of the central crypt inside his monument holding a photograph of himself and his wife when they were 31 and 28
Mr Quadri sits on the wall of the central crypt inside his monument holding a photograph of himself and his wife when they were 31 and 28

Given the routine, callous abuse and abandonment of many women in India who fail to produce a son, its heartening to report for a change on the opposite. Faisal and Begum’s marriage was arranged, she was his cousin and they wed while still in their teens but their love flourished. Their bond was sealed when he refused to bow to family pressure and take a second wife after a tumour removed from her uterus left her unable to have children. It was only when she lay dying from cancer that he began to worry about an absence of heirs.

“Who will mark our deaths when we are gone?” I told her: “Don’t worry, I will make sure you are remembered not just on your death anniversary but for many years to come.”

Mr Quadri stands in the doorway of his Taj-Mahal inspired mausoleum
Mr Quadri stands in the doorway of his Taj-Mahal inspired mausoleum

Armed only with a dog-eared brochure from a visit to the Taj Mahal many decades earlier and a few rough sketches, Mr Qadri began working on his own scaled-down version in the field to the rear of his modest home four hours drive from Delhi. Though made of concrete and unfinished (he says it will cost a further 600,000 rupees to clad the structure in marble) the place has real presence and is remarkably reminiscent of Shah Jahan’s monument in an affectionate thumbnail sketch kind of way.

“He was a king,” he says of Shah Jahan, who built the Taj in memory of his wife Mumtaz Mahal.

“I have to build according to my capacity. Also he used government money to build it — I have taken money from no one.”

Progress is therefore limited by his income, he says he can spend only 100,000 rupees a year.  But, brimming with spirit and good humour, he’s adamant that he will live to complete the project and be buried in the space he has left at Begum’s side in the monument’s basement crypt.

The final stone will bear the inscription. “This is not the Taj Mahal but it is the memory of love.”

Mr Quadri, holds a pamphlet on the Taj Mahal that he used to design his replica monument
Mr Quadri holds a pamphlet on the Taj Mahal that he used to design his replica monument
Quadri's notebook with hand sketches of the construction plans of his Taj Mahal inspired mausoleum
Mr Quadri’s notebook with hand sketches of the construction plans of his Taj Mahal inspired mausoleum
Mr Quadri in his home
Mr Quadri in his home

I was commissioned by The Times (London) to shoot this story, the full article can be found here by Francis Elliot to whom I owe thanks for his permission to borrow from the same.

Method: all natural light, Nikon D700 and D3s except for second shot of Mr Quadri inside the mausoleum which was brightened up a bit with a Nikon SB900 Speedlight held off camera to left on a SC-29 extension cord.
















School Under a Metro Bridge

Boys read from a blackboard painted onto the walls of a metro bridge at a makeshift school in New Delhi, 8th April 2013Their classroom is outdoors in the heat and dust, its roof a rumbling metro line, blackboards painted onto a rough concrete wall but for some children of Delhi’s migrant population its the only school they have. I became aware of this humbling story through a report by photographer Altaf Qadri who re-discovered it in 2012 and brought it back to prominence. In fact the school’s founder, forty two year old Rajesh Kumar Sharma began to teach under privileged children in Delhi in 1997 and this is the third incarnation and location of his jugaad (makeshift) school.

Children study while a metro train passes overhead at the school
Children study while a metro train passes overhead at the current site of the school
Front page of the Times of India from 11th December 1997 shows Rajesh Sharma (left) and the first site of his makeshift school near the ITO flyover in Delhi
Front page of the Times of India from 11th December 1997 shows Rajesh Kumar Sharma (left) at the first site of his makeshift school near the ITO flyover in Delhi

The idea to open a school came to shop owner Sharma on a morning walk along the Yamuna river when he saw some children weeding and picking flowers. “I asked them which school they went to and they looked at me with no answer, it had not occurred to me before that not every child has access to a school’ he said. This resonated with Sharma who himself had been forced to drop out of college in his third year due to financial constraints so he decided to to offer free basic education to the children of the local labourers and farmers.

A makeshift settlement of farm labourers on the Yamuna Bank, children from settlements like this attend the makeshift school
A settlement of farm labourers on the Yamuna Bank, children from settlements like this attend the makeshift school
Rajesh Kumar Sharma looks on as children arrive at his school
Rajesh Kumar Sharma looks on as children arrive at his school

Surprisingly it was not easy convincing the children’s parents to let them attend a school and it remains one of his biggest and constant challenges today.  Because they are poor and mostly illiterate they often see no need for their children to be educated and prefer to put them to work at home and also worry about possible costs involved. Despite this at the current school up to 70 children between four and fourteen years old turn up early each weekday morning, sweep the floor clean and put down foam mats to sit on. Mr Sharma arrives around 9 am having left his shop in his brother’s hands, and with his friend Laxmi Chandra teaches them for two hours, – mainly elementary reading, writing,  arithmetic and some geometry.

Rajesh Kumar Sharma (left) and Mr Laxmi Chandra (right) teach children mainly from migrant families

Rajesh Kumar Sharma (left) and Mr Laxmi Chandra teach children mainly from migrant families in Delhi

Rajesh Kumar Sharma with Savita Kumari (12) learning words by rote
Mr Sharma helps Savita Kumari (12) and the rest of the students learn words by rote

The first time I visited the school I found it quite a moving experience to see such a thirst for knowledge, such concentration and happy tolerance of difficult conditions. Then there was a matter of fact statement from one of the children which brought a lump to my throat, “I prefer it at this school because we learn things, at the government school we just get beaten”.  Then, after a pause ” Though I wouldn’t mind the beatings if they taught us too”.

Govind (10) who wants to be a doctor studies at a blackboard
Govind (10) studies at a blackboard. He wants to be a doctor and currently sells plants from a cart
Govind (10, right who wants to be a doctor and currently sells plants from a cart) and Samnath (10)
L-R: Samnath and Govind  both 10
Dharam Pal (around 5 years old) studies
Dharam Pal (around 5 years old) studies
L-R foreground: Mamta, Savitha Kumari (12, centre) and Kunti study
L-R foreground: Mamta, Savitha Kumari (12, centre) and Kunti study
Dharam Singh (8) copies from a blackboard
Dharam Singh (8) copies from a blackboard

After the government enforced the 2009 Right to Education Act last year, which guarantees free schooling for children between the ages of 6 and 14, Mr Sharma decided to focus on preparing the children for admission to government schools and helping them to cope with the curriculum. Parents need only accompany their children to a government school to enrol but most migrant workers are fearful of doing even this as many live in illegal settlements and are therefore loathe to interact with authorities.

Ajay Kumar (7) shyly offers up his exercise book for marking
Ajay Kumar (7) offers up his exercise book for marking

After the RTE push, enrolment in state schools has increased from 193 million to 199 million, and the government has invested more than $11 billion extra dollars in upgrading the school system. Despite this schools appear to be getting worse. There remain at least 700,000 teacher vacancies, and many of those who are employed don’t have the proper training and absenteeism is rife. When teachers do turn up to the packed classes children complain they just write a problem on the board and leave. Contrast this with Mr Sharma’s school and you can see why the kids keep coming back.

Rajesh Kumar Sharma checks Dharam Pal's work
Rajesh Kumar Sharma checks Dharam Pal’s work

Initially Mr Sharma paid all of the costs of the children’s textbooks, pencils and exercise books himself but over time donations, sometimes anonymous have started to trickle in though as with the volunteers who come to help, more are needed.

Sharma says he takes each day as it comes as, operating on railway property, he could be told to stop at any time. Until then the school is a beacon of hope for marginalised children with few options,  in Mr Sharma’s words:

“To change the future of these children, education is the only weapon. If they go anywhere in the world, if they have education, they can achieve anything. And without education, they can do nothing.”



Mamta writes on the blackboard
Mamta writes on the blackboard
Savitha Kumari (12) erases words on the blackboard after class
Even after class children stay behind at the blackboard, Savitha Kumari (12) erases words
A boy rolls up the last of the mats at the end of class
A boy rolls up the last of the mats at the end of class
Children make their way home though market garden crops after class
Children make their way home though market garden crops after class
Veeresh Kumar (9) sits with his grandmother in the doorway of his home located on the banks of the Yamuna River while a relative cooks breakfast. His parents are market gardeners. "I want to become an engineer someday because I like numbers and I like how English sounds when I speak the words" he says
Veeresh Kumar (9) sits with his grandmother in the doorway of his home on the banks of the Yamuna River while a relative cooks breakfast. His parents are market gardeners. “I want to become an engineer someday because I like numbers and I like how English sounds when I speak the words” he says

I was first commissioned to shoot this story by The Times in London (see here) and later by The National (see here). Sources: due acknowledgement to Suryatapa Bhattacharya’s article in The National (mentioned above) and the AP article by Ravi Nessman here.

Method: all natural light, Nikon D700 and D3s
















Pushkar Mela 2012

A camel herder leads his charges though the desert in the early morning on the way to Pushkar Camel Fair on the 18th November 2012

After a gap of two years I went back to the Pushkar Camel fair (see my earlier post here) and found it little changed. The event still presents spine tingling opportunities for photography,  – if you can get a clean shot through hordes of like-minded ‘lensmen’.. The National have published a selection of these images on their National View blog.

Herders and their camels walk along the road to the Pushkar Horse and Camel Fair
Camel traders and camels in the early morning at the Pushkar Horse and Camel Fair
Camel traders squat around the embers of a fire in the early morning
A camel herder ties firewood to the back of a camel after camping overnight in the desert forest near Pushkar
A young camel herder cleans a drinking bowl with sand
A camel herder leads his camel through the desert as the sun comes up
Camels pass by women as they are driven through the desert to the Pushkar Horse and Camel Fair
A hot air balloon above camels in the early morning at Pushkar Mela

A man trims the ear hair of his camel at Pushkar. Traders are fanatical about the presentation of their beasts

A camel trader grooms his camel in the early morning
A horse ‘dances’ to the beat of a drum in the events arena at the Pushkar Horse and Camel Fair
Camel traders sit by their fire at dusk
A man leading his camel at dusk
Camel traders at their camp fire. ISO 5000, f4 @ 80th and noise free! The Nikon D3s low-light performance is without peer

A camel with a red nose decoration

 Method: all natural light, Nikon D700 and D3s

Delhi’s Baolis (Stepwells)

A boy jumps into Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli,on the 27th September, 2014, in Delhi

After doing a guided walk to some of Delhi’s ancient baolis (stepwells) I decided to explore more of them. I’d been living in the city for 5 years and though I knew of one in Nizamuddin near where I live, I had no idea there were so many and that they were so beautiful. I was particularly astonished to find one hidden so close to Delhi’s high-rise financial district, Connaught Place, presenting a classic collision of old and new. At the turn of the last century Delhi had more than 100 baolis, now many of them have caved in or dried up owing to the declining water table as this was what kept them full rather than rainfall.  If you look at pictures from the 70’s they used to be almost full with water. The fact that most are dry now* is indicative of India’s burgeoning city populations and the relentless demand for water, much of it siphoned directly from the water table through illegal boreholes by the populace. This in turn is indicative of the Indian governments failure to provide sufficient water to its own people. Currently their number has shrunk to about 15 according to the ASI (Archaological Survey of India) and sadly today most are neglected, overlooked or locked to prevent accidental drownings. Still, the ones that remain are as magical as they are majestic and frequented now mostly by occasional tour groups, school children, lovers, pilgrims and others seeking a rare place of peace amid Delhi’s madding crowds.

Local painter 22 year old Sheikh Nazir Udin washes himself in the water of the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli, its one of the few baolis in Delhi still in use by local people

Baolis are examples of the many types of storage and irrigation tanks that were developed in India, mainly to cope with seasonal fluctuations in water availability. Most common in western India, they may also be found in the other more arid regions of the subcontinent, extending into Pakistan.The majority of surviving stepwells originally also served a leisure purpose because the base of the well provided relief from daytime heat. Stepwells also served as a place for social gatherings and religious ceremonies. Usually, women were more associated with these wells because they were the ones who collected the water and it was they who prayed and offered gifts to the goddess of the well for her blessings. This led to the building of some significant ornamental and architectural features often associated with dwellings, it also ensured their survival as monuments. Stepwells usually consist of two parts: a vertical shaft from which water is drawn and the surrounding inclined subterranean passageways, chambers and steps which provide access to the well. The galleries and chambers surrounding these wells were often carved profusely with elaborate detail and became cool, quiet retreats during the hot summers. The National published a selection of images from this story in their Review (hard copy) and on their National View blog here.

Men from a small group of caretakers sit by a fire in the morning by Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli, they look after the tombs of Muslim saints next to the baoli
Carved columns of the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli
Carved columns of the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli
Sheikh Nazir Udin descends the steps of the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli to bathe
Sheikh Nazir Udin dives into the water to rinse himself while bathing at the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli
Sameena Khan sits in quiet contemplation on the steps of the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli
After de-silting the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli has more water in it than I've ever seen
After de-silting the Gandhak Ki Baoli in Mehrauli has more water in it than I’ve ever seen, Feb 2016
School children ascend the steps of Agrasen ki Baoli. Hidden close to Delhi’s financial district it presents a jarring collision of ancient and modern. Photographs from the 1970’s show it full of water.
Pigeons fly through a sunbeam in the well-shaft of the Agrasen ki Baoli in New Delhi as bats roost above them on the underside of the domed roof
A man is bathed by a woman at the Hazrat Nizamuddin Baoli which is the only one in Delhi to be fed by springs
Salim a local Nizamuddin resident enjoys the water at the Hazrat Nizamuddin Baoli
The Red Fort’s baoli is 14th century, significantly pre-dating the fort itself which is 17th century. It has an unusual design that features an octagonal well-shaft, two-stories and two sets of steps leading down, one from the north and one from the west. It was sometimes used as a prison by the British and before them the Mughals
The steps on the North side of the baoli at the Red Fort in New Delhi
The steps on the North side of the Red Fort baoli
Another view of the steps on the North side of the Red Fort baoli
View of the well and steps leading up to the west at the Red Fort baoli
View of the well and steps leading up to the west at the Red Fort baoli
View up well-shaft of the baoli at the Red Fort
View up the well-shaft of the baoli at the Red Fort
View of the beautiful and unusual circular baoli at Feroz Shah Kotla in New Delhi
Another view of the baoli at Feroz Shah Kotla
Good to see the Rajon Ki Baoli in Mehrauli with some water in it again after restoration work, 3rd February, 2016
The well shaft of Rajon Ki Baoli in Mehrauli complete with stone rope-guides and grooved pillars above to take the ropes
The well shaft of Rajon Ki Baoli in Mehrauli complete with stone rope-guides and grooved pillars above to take the ropes
Unfortunately a lot of Delhi’s baolis are in the same neglected state at Qutub Sahib Ki Baoli in Mehrauli, 3rd February, 2016
An overgrown and runied baoli within Tughlaqabad Fort
An overgrown and runied baoli within Tughlaqabad Fort
A man relaxes at dusk beside the Hauz Khas lake at Hauz Khas village, though not strictly a baoli its a water body very popular with Delhi-ites

4th February 2016 Note:  After a desilting project ordered by the High Court that reportedly took 10 years, Rajon Ki Baoli now has water in it again as can bee seen by the photograph above. This raises hopes that some of the other dry baolis in Delhi might also be able to be restored to life and that the dwindling water table might not be the only reason they are dry.

Method: all natural light, Nikon D700, D3s and Canon S90

Oz Fest opening night + Bhubaneswar concert

Aboriginal Australian singer Gurrumul Yunupingu performs with his band at the opening night of Oz Fest in New Delhi, in front of Purana Qila’€™s Sher Mandal Observatory brought to life with 3D light projections, 16th October 2012.

Australia’s four month Oz Fest in India kicked off on Tuesday night with an opening concert that dazzled and moved those lucky enough to be there. The biggest Australian cultural festival ever staged in India has been painstakingly designed over the last two years and celebrates the meeting of Australia and India with a series of events and concerts featuring leading artists from both countries with the aim of connecting two unique, contemporary cultures grounded in ancient tradition. Three mesmerising performances marked the night beginning with didgeridoo virtuoso Mark Atkins playing that most atavistic of instruments to spine tingling effect, – you feel as much as you hear.  Aboriginal Australian singer Gurrumul Yunupingu  came next followed by Indian sitarist Anoushka Shankar with other distinguished Indian musicians. In fact to be fair there was a fourth bravura performance,  that of the prosaically named AGB Events, producers of Sydney’s Vivid Light Festival. Their 3D projections onto Purana Qila’€™s Sher Mandal Observatory brought it to life in a gorgeous, subtle and moving way perfectly complimenting each performer and providing an Indian touchstone even when imaginations were transported deep into Australian dreamtime. Which brings me back to Gurrumul Yunupingu accompanied beautifully by his band. His voice was quite simply a revelation, I’ve never heard anything quite like before it and I say without shame that it brought a lump to my throat while shooting the performance, it didn’t feel like a concert it felt like therapy. Without understanding a word (except for the one song that he sang in English which did not work so well) I was deeply moved. I think Sting put it best, no mean warbler himself he once described Gurrumul’s voice as that ‘of a higher being‘, I know what he means, deadly.

Gurrumul Yunupingu

Australia’€™s didgeridoo virtuoso Mark Atkins
Indian sitarist Anoushka Shankar and other distinguished Indian musicians perform at the opening night of Oz Fest in New Delhi
Australian Prime Minister, Julia Gillard at the opening night of Oz Fest in front of Purana Qila’s Sher Mandal Observatory

A few days later I travelled to Bhubaneswar in Orissa for a the second Oz Fest concert. There was another gorgeous backdrop, this time in the form of the beautiful Rajarani Temple in the city.  Mark Atkins and Gurrumul and his band preformed once more and this time were joined on the bill by traditional Odishan folk artists.

Mark Atkins performs in front of the Rajarani Temple in Bhubaneswar
Gurrumul Yunupingu and band perform in front of the Rajarani Temple
Michael Hohnen plays the double bass as he accompanies Aboriginal Australian singer Gurrumul Yunupingu

Boys from the Konark Natya Mandap Gotipua dance school in Konark, backstage at the Oz Fest event at the Rajarani Temple
Boys from the Konark Natya Mandap Gotipua dance school in Konark perform at the Oz Fest event at the Rajarani Temple, Bhubaneswar

Method: all natural light, Nikon D3s and D700


Hardayal Library

A view from the first floor of the Hardayal Library in Old Delhi that faces closure due to a funding wrangle

For any book lover within striking distance the venerable Hardayal Library in Old Delhi is a fascinating reliquary worthy of pilgrimage. It houses one of the country’s finest collections of antiquarian books including gold illuminated translations of Hindu and Muslim religious works as well as a 1677 edition of Sir Walter Raleigh’s History of the World. In all there are over 8,000 rare books – potentially worth millions – from a stock of 170,000. The library began in 1862 as a book club for British officials who donated volumes they’d brought and read on the long sea voyages from home. The collection was initially kept in the Lawrence Institute in Old Delhi’s town hall, then in 1916 it relocated to the current building off Chandni Chowk and was renamed the Hardinge Municipal Public Library. It was only some time after independence that the “Hardinge” was replaced with “Hardayal” in 1970 – after freedom fighter Lala Hardayal, who had flung a bomb at Lord Hardinge’s elephant procession in December 1912. Ironically, the present building was built after the failed attack with contributions from Indian royals and institutions of the time to commemorate Lord Hardinge’s escape.

The original entrance to the Hardinge Library is no longer favoured since the place was renamed the ‘Hardayal’ library in 1974 after a freedom fighter
The Hardayal Library front view. The dome on the roof now houses the watchman

The nearly century-old building is full of character preserving the tall arches, wooden spiral staircases and tall doors. A precarious, narrow iron staircase leads to the first floor that houses books in Hindi and English. Flooded with natural light during the day, you need to watch your step walking on the frail, creaky, plywood floor. Students throng the air-conditioned reading rooms to study or take a break from the hurly-burly of Old Delhi but despite the value of the library’s collection there’s no controlled environment for the books which are gradually succumbing to damp and coated with dust. Modernisation would be a priority you’d think and yet the current prospects for the library continuing to exist at all are bleak. Funding has been frozen and the staff who loyally continue to turn up have not received their wages in 7 months. The reason?  It seems with the trifurcation of the MCD (Municipal Corporation of Delhi) early in 2012 the library has fallen victim to an inverse turf-war. Each MCD office seems to be vying with the others to distance itself from any liability to support either the head office in Old Delhi or any of the other 31 branches spread across the capital. I hope they soon come to their senses it’d be a scandal if this valuable public resource and national treasure were allowed to simply fade away. A selection of my photographs have been published to accompany  Dean Nelson‘s Daily Telegraph story here and on The National’s photography blog, here.

The oldest book (foreground) in the Hardayal Municipal Public Library in Old Delhi, ” A Relation of Some Years Travaile Beginning in 1626′ by Thomas Hardy Esquire, published by Willaim Stansby and Jacob Bloome in 1634
A rare, crumbling copy of the Mahabharata in Persian
Madhukar Rao, Librarian
The library plays host to many stray cats which are fed by the staff


The library watchman’s quirky quarters are in the dome atop the library

Method: all natural light with the exception of a bit of fill flash of the oldest book: Nikon SB900 on an SC29 extension cord hand-held to left, all shot with a Nikon D3s




Marwari: Trampled Under Foot

Om Prakash a 26 year old Horse Trainer lunges 'Dilsher' a 7 year old Marwari stallion in the early morning in Rajasthan, India, 2008

In 2008 I began working on a story about India’s fieriest and most regal breed of horse, the Marwari in the Jhunjhunu district of Rajasthan. I was shooting at a stud farm near Dundlod Fort in the early morning, trying to get some nice shots of the scene with the sun coming through the dust as the trainer lunged the Marwari stallion, Dilsher, in deep loamy soil.  Little did I know I was about to capture something far more dramatic..

Om Prakash is barged by 'Dilsher' a 7 year old Marwari stallion that he had been lunging


Om Prakash begins to fall under Dilsher's hooves
Om Prakash passes through Dilsher's hind legs

The above sequence of photos shows an incident that occurred 22 minutes into the lunging session. During the session Om Prakash seemed to have trouble keeping Dilsher on the move, – he actively seemed to resist doing the exercise which I put down to ‘stroppy laziness’, after all I reasoned,  I would quickly get bored and angry if continually forced run in circles in deep soil!  Indeed there were several stand-offs when Dilsher refused to co-operate and a battle of wills ensued culminating in the application of the whip to get him to resume. It was during a final stand-off that Om Prakash approached Dilsher to calm him down and then (to my untrained eye) Dilsher appeared to deliberately knock Om Prakash down and trample him. Looking on from a distance, horrified, I reflexively held the shutter of my Nikon D2X down for the 2 seconds that it took  to rattle off these 5 frames. Then I rushed forward expecting Om Prakash to be seriously injured or worse, dead. To my amazement and relief he rose gingerly from the ground in a shower of dust, still grimly holding the lunging line.  After carefully dusting himself off he reeled the skittish stallion in, re-established control and tight lipped with pain led him quietly and slowly back to the stables. I preceded them hoping to get the attention of another stable hand who could take over from Om Prakash but to no avail. Once back at the stables Om Prakash was quickly rushed to a nearby hospital for a thorough examination while I waited anxiously, feeling somehow to blame and sure serious internal injuries would now come to light. But happily, much to my relief  he was discharged with nothing more than extensive bruising, it seemed little short of miraculous.

When contemplating this piece for the blog I happened to mention it to my horsey sister who rubbished my anthropomorphic conclusion that the stallion had been fed up of the tough exercise and attacked the man to get out of it. ‘Horses don’t get angry like that’ she said, ‘there will be another reason’. She then referred a much larger edit of pictures (covering 20 or so minutes of the exercise) to horse behavioural expert Sarah Fisher who said ‘ There is always a reason that accidents happen and the majority of horse owners and handlers don’t understand the link between posture and behaviour. There is no way the horse had an issue with the person – just the situation – otherwise he wouldn’t have walked so calmly back with the man’,  and she went on to add ‘if the horse wanted to attack the handler he would and could have done and the handler in all probability would be dead’.  On the causes of the accident Ms Fisher opined ‘It would appear to me to be a question of discomfort, confusion and some basic errors that triggered it.’ She identified various possible contributory factors to the stallion’s discomfort like the loose footing, the choice of a Pelham bit, an ill-fitting bridle, and on some occasions the lunge line being clipped to the wrong side of the bridle for the way the horse was working. ‘Pain causes a horse to run blind and when the head is up as it is in the frames where he makes contact with the handler the horse cannot see anything that may be immediately in front of him’ she said.  But she also acknowledged that it was impossible to be sure of the exact cause of the mishap as I’d not shot any frames for 45 seconds immediately preceding the accident and so she did not have a full picture. Whatever the cause I’m just happy the result was not tragedy for man or beast.

Om Prakash leads Dilsher back to the stable

The Rathores, traditional rulers of the Marwar region of western India, were the first to breed the Marwari horse in the 12th century, crossing native Indian ponies with Arabian horses and possibly with some Mongolian stock. They espoused a strict breeding programme that promoted purity and hardiness. Used throughout history as a cavalry horse by the people of the Marwar region, the Marwari was noted for its loyalty and bravery in battle. The Rathores believed that the Marwari horse could only leave a battlefield under one of three conditions – victory, death, or carrying a wounded master to safety. Yet despite once being revered as divine beings above the status of their riders the breed deteriorated badly in the 1930s as a result of persecution by the British who refused to use ‘native breeds’ preferring instead to import less well suited animals. The knock-on effect of this was poor management of the Marwari’s which resulted in a reduction of the breeding stock and this only began to recover with the formation of the Indigenous Horse Society of India in 1999.  The Marwari is a perfectly adapted desert horse. The coat is fine and silky to keep them cool,  they have exceptionally hard hooves to deal with the rocky terrain and they can travel great distances on scant water.  To cope with sandstorms they have developed long eyelashes and perhaps their most easily recognisable feature –  their unique lyre shaped ears which can rotate 180 degrees individually or together.

Dundlod Fort, Jhunjhunu, Rajasthan

My first encounter with the horses was at Dundlod Fort where I met the delightful hereditary owner, Kanwar Raghuvendra Singh Dundlod (‘Bonnie’), founding Secretary General of the Indigenous Horse Society of India. In 1982 when the producers of The Far Pavilions came to Dundlod they hired Bonnie as a coordinator and afterwards he bought a dozen of the best horses that were used in the film and turned the family fort into a Heritage Hotel as a base for Sheikhawati’s first horse safaris. Later he established the Marwari Bloodlines stud with his partner Francesca Kelly to promote the breed that was dangerously close to dying out. Bonnie’s society is dedicated to the preservation and international recognition of the indigenous horses of India and to define the ideal characteristics of the Marwari in particular it has produced a ‘Breed Standards’ book for it.

Kanwar Raghuvendra Singh Dundlod ("Bonnie") in the Diwan Khana (audience hall) of his ancestral home, Dundlod Fort, Rajasthan, India, 13th June 2008


Bonnie on one of the covered balconies of Dundlord Fort
An old book in Dundlod Fort based on the 4000 year old ''Shalihotra Samhita". The Shalihotra Samhita is a large treatise on the care and management of horses with some 12,000 shlokas in Sanskrit. It is the principal work of Shalihotra (c. 2350 BCE) who was the son of a Brahmin sage.
An excited Marwari stallion at the Pushkar Horse & Camel Fair
A Marwari stallion performs in a Horse 'dancing' competition at the Pushkar Horse and Camel Fair

The restrictions imposed by the policies of the Indian government on exports of its primary indigenous breeds, including the Marwari, is a great obstacle in popularising and breeding this horse overseas. Another damper on the health of the Marwari is that India falls short of the EU’s acceptable disease-free zone standards, which makes export of the horse to countries like the USA impossible. Making the best of this situation and working on getting the Marwari better health and constitutional policies, both Dundlod and Kelly are taking the Marwari to the grounds of Windsor Castle, England for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Pageant in May 2012.  It seems the Marwari’s star is rising again.


A feature on Marwari horses from the January/February 2012 issue of 'Marwar' magazine featuring my pictures

Method: all natural light with the exception of the portrait of Bonnie on one of the balconies of Dundlod Fort. This I shot using a Nikon SB800 Speedlight attached to my monopod and flown outside the fort by an assistant and connected to my D3 camera with an SC29 Flash Extension cord. This gave nice catchlights in his eyes. The portrait of Bonnie on his horse in the magazine was also lit with fill flash via a similar method.




Hindu’s celebrate Holi in the Banke Bihari Temple, Vrindavan, Uttar Pradesh, India , 1st March 2010

Holi, also called the Festival of Colours, is a spring festival celebrated by Hindus, Buddhists, Sikhs, Jains and others. It is primarily observed in India, Nepal, Srilanka, Pakistan, Bangladesh, and also other countries with large Indian populations. In India, it is in the Braj region of Uttar Pradesh that Holi is celebrated with the most fervour, – in locations connected to the god Krishna: Mathura, Vrindavan, Nandagaon, and Barsana. These places have become tourist destinations during the festive season of Holi, which lasts here to up to sixteen days. The main day, Holi, also known as Dhulheti, Dhulandi or Dhulendi, is celebrated by people throwing colored powder and colored water at each other. Bonfires are lit the day before, also known as Holika Dahan (burning of Holika) or Chhoti Holi (little Holi). The bonfires are lit in memory of the miraculous escape that young Prahlad accomplished when Demoness Holika, sister of Hiranyakashipu, carried him into the fire. Holika was burnt but Prahlad, a staunch devotee of god Vishnu, escaped without any injuries due to his unshakable devotion.

Hindu’s react with joy and awe as the idol of Lord Krishna is revealed (‘darshan’) as they celebrate Holi

A Hindu man, his face flecked with dye stares rapturously as he catches a glimpse (‘darshan’) of the idol of Lord Krishna in the Banke Bihari Temple
A woman prays quietly as Hindu’s celebrate Holi in the Banke Bihari Temple in Vrindavan
A Hindu boy flings a bag of yellow dye over his head as he celebrates Holi in Vrindavan

Method: the main challenge when photographing Holi (aside from remaining stylish!) is trying not to destroy cameras and lenses during the process. The tactic of choice is wrapping everything 3 or 4 layers deep in cling film and re-doing it a couple of times a day. The problem then is that you can’t make adjustments, so you cut small notches through to the control wheels and hope not too much water and dye will penetrate the cameras – as in the religious fervour, you will have entire buckets of  dye-loaded water emptied over you and your kit… You can forget about zooming too so its best to use fast primes. Wear old clothes you can discard afterwards and slather coconut oil through your hair and over exposed skin so that the dye (some of which contains toxins) cannot adhere as well. And keep smiling!




‘Medicine Baba’

75 year old Omkar Nath walks the streets calling out for people to donate their leftover medicines

Faced with India’s seemingly all-pervading endemic corruption one could be forgiven for beginning to lose faith in human nature. So it was really refreshing recently to cover an inspiring story of bona-fide philanthopism right here in Delhi, not from a well-heeled do-gooder but a 75 year old disabled man, Omkar Nath, who lives in a slum.  Three years ago rather than taking it easy in his retirement Nath took it upon himself to begin collecting unwanted medicines from Deliites to give to the poor. Omkar Nath pounds Delhi’s pavements and roads 5 days a week gathering pills and capsules in plastic carrier bags mainly from middle and lower middle-class neighbourhoods. These are the best areas, – he rarely receives donations from wealthy areas he says. On the remaining two days he catalogues his haul and passes it onto several clinics with whom he has built up a relationship. These clinics then distribute the medicine free of cost to impoverished patients. One clinic says Mr Nath supplies up to 10 percent of the medicine they prescribe. The inspiration for Mr Nath’s mission was witnessing a construction accident in 2008 and seeing that injured patients were being discharged from a government hospital without medicine, due to a supply shortfall, ‘ It struck me then that if I could obtain medicine, it could be distributed free of charge’ he says. Initially, Omkar Nath’s family were unhappy with him apparently turning into a beggar but have now come to accept it. ‘Medicine Baba‘ as the Indian media have dubbed him has even become a minor celebrity in Delhi and been featured on television news bulletins. Unfazed by the attention,  Mr Nath in a bright orange smock emblazoned with his contact numbers continues his gruelling 5 mile a day marches with quiet, dignified determination paying no heed to the difficulties his legs – skewed by the impact of a car at 12 years of age – must cause him. Truly humbling.

For Andrew Buncombe‘s full report in the Independent today see here and below.

Mrs Roshni Devi gives some unwanted medicine to Omkar Nath in Lakshmibai Colony in Delhi
Omkar Nath sorts his mornings take of medicines that he'd collected in Delhi
Page 31 of The Independent, 27th February 2012 featuring Andrew Buncombe's report and my pictures

Method: natural light except for the shot of Omkar Nath sorting the medicines. This featured some fill flash courtesy of my SB900 held off to camera right by a VAL (thanks Dev!), connected to my Nikon D3s via an SC29 flash extension cord. Aperture Priority with +1.3 exposure, F5.6, 1/800th, ISO 320.


Mad Dogs and Englishmen..

23 year old Sudari Gorna (of the Gameti tribe) with her daughter Krishna

Working with great natural light for portraiture is difficult to top and capturing people at ease in their own homes where they feel most comfortable often yields the best results. But if you want or need your portraits to show more of the environment you’ve got to move outside. Early morning and late afternoon are favourite but sometimes the midday sun -with attendant Mad Dogs and Englishmen – is unavoidable.

Natural light can work beautifully outside too if its dull and even, but if you have to shoot on a sunny day when its very bright (as above, from a recent assignment in India) then fill-flash can be a life saver as, subtly used, it will allow you to preserve detail and colour in your subject and the environment at the same time. I’d already photographed Sudari and her baby (see first photo at the top of this post) just inside the doorway of her home in rural Rajasthan and was pleased with the result. But I wanted to get another shot of her outside, for a couple of reasons. Firstly its always best to give your client a range of shots that they can use in different ways and secondly I wanted to convey the remoteness of her location as this was important for her story.

As always seems to be the way (!) time was at a premium and I could not spend too long on the shot. So after a very quick scope of the views on offer I positioned Sudari with her back to the picturesque nearby hills and, more importantly, facing away from the strong sun so that she would not be squinting too much. I also liked the framing provided by the tree to her left and the pieces of wood on her right.  I would normally shoot in Manual mode on the camera for this kind of set up as this forces you to think more about what you’re doing because you have to make all the inputs.  For example, keeping the shutter speed within the flash sync speed is advisable in bright light as it gives the flash gun a fighting chance of filling in the foreground from a distance. If you shoot above this magic figure and venture into the realms of the Auto FP High Speed Sync flash mode (explained here) the range of the flash will diminish drastically and re-cycling times will increase too, often resulting in many shots underexposed in the foreground during a shooting burst. This is especially true if you are using a medium or longer lens as the further from the subject the camera is the harder the flash will have to work.

But  on this occasion for whatever reason my fevered brain chose Aperture Priority which is my one of my favourite exposure modes. Something must have sparked in the grey matter though as I had the sense to choose an aperture (F18) that gave me an outdoor ‘flash-gun-friendly’ shutter speed of 1/160th of a second with ISO 200.  Then I used an obliging VAL (Voice Activated Light Stand – AKA a friendly person who is willing to hold stuff, thank you Keith!) to hand-hold one of my Nikon SB800 ‘s a little above Sudari’s eye-line off to the right by around 30 degrees or so. This I triggered with an SB900 flash gun mounted on the hot shoe of the camera via the Nikon Creative Lighting System. This unit was simply commanding the SB800 and not contributing to the lighting. Initial exposures showed that the remote flash (with no compensation) was not illuminating Sudari’s face sufficiently from the closest range (5 – 6 ft) that Keith could stand without appearing in the frame, – because with such a small lens aperture it needed a power boost.  So over the next few frames I bumped up the flash output by a stop and a half and zoomed the head out to 70mm.  This then produced the semi-spotlight-ish effect you see above. I’m quite pleased with it as the flash illuminates Sudari’s eyes and face well giving a nicely modelled, three dimensional light. It also makes her stand out from the background and the colour of her clothing pop. All in all it took about 5 minutes. It’s by no means perfect I admit, with more time I’d have liked to have used a second light to illuminate her lower half for a more even effect.  I could also have tried a ND (Neutral Density) filter on the 50mm lens I was using to reduce the amount of light entering the camera, this would have allowed me to use a wider aperture with a reduced depth of field to further separate Sudari from the background though personally I think the DOF is fine as it is for the intended use of the image.

Another good tactic is to move your subjects into the shade, as above. This will help them relax as they will be more comfortable (especially if its very hot) and they won’t have to squint, meaning you will get the chance of putting catchlights in their eyes.  Here I also put down a handy charpoy for them to sit on with my chosen view behind. The shot was taken just a few minutes after Sudari’s portrait and this time I reverted to Manual mode on the camera using my 17-35 lens at 28mm, F5 at 1/400th of a second on ISO 160, – instantly breaking my own ‘keep it under 250th of a second’ rule I know, but then I always like to make life hard for myself!  The wide angle lens gives much more depth of field than the 50mm, so F5 was appropriate to give a detailed but not distracting background. Fill-flash was needed here to make up for the wide exposure discrepancy between the sunlit background and the shaded foreground. My generous VAL, Keith, assisted me once more standing camera left with the SB800 held high. This time I refitted the dome diffuser to provide the wider spread of light that the wide angle lens required. A bit of plus EV flash compensation was required once more before I got a nicely lit series of shots of the family. Ideally a third light with a grid attached, to camera right and behind the couple and out of shot would have given a nice bit of rim-light to the couples hair and separated them more from the background but time had run out, we really had to go. When I queried the urgency of our departure with a field worker, he said that due to the enthusiastic consumption of locally brewed ‘country liquor’ in the area, the road became ‘unsafe’ in the late afternoon due to ‘dacoit’ (bandit) activity, so, discretion being the better part of valour we beat a hasty retreat!


The Love Commandos

Harsh Malhotra (centre) Chief Coordinator, with other Love Commandos on a rooftop in Old Delhi

Sadly, the Indian media still reports with dispiriting frequency on horrific accounts of  so-called ‘honour killings’.  These occur mainly in the Northern states and are virtually unknown in South India. One recent study estimated that there are more than 1,000 honour killings in India every year. The killings occur as a result of people marrying without their family’s acceptance, and sometimes for marrying outside their caste or religion. Incredibly, close family members are prepared to kill their own flesh and blood rather than suffer the social stigma of an unsuitable match, – as decided by themselves or the chap panchayats. These are the notorious village caste councils that rule on who can and cannot marry and regularly pass sentence of death on those who refuse to accept their diktats on caste or gotra (another subdivision based on lineage). Alarmingly, honour killings that were once confined to the ultra-conservative hinterlands are creeping into the nations’ capital as old and new India collide. An example of this that stunned Delhi occurred in in June 2010 on the outskirts of the city when a teenage girl and her boyfriend were tortured and murdered by the girl’s family, who objected to the relationship . I covered this for The Independent (see image below and Andrew Buncombe’s excellent full report here). This incident sparked an unusual amount of outrage due to the brutality of the offence and the fact that it had occurred in the city that was feverishly gearing up for the Commonwealth Games and keen to show its best side. Only a couple of weeks later there was a triple ‘dishonour killing’, again on Delhi’s outskirts, that involved three young perpetrators acting alone without direct sanction from community elders.

Devendri Devi holds up a photograph of her murdered 19 year old nephew (left, in blue) Yogesh Kumar. He was killed by his girlfriend Asha’s family on the 14th June 2010 in Delhi because they objected to the relationship on caste grounds, they also killed her.

It was then something of a relief to shoot a positive story on honour killings in the shape of the Love Commandos. The organisation started as a group of like-minded friends protecting canoodling couples who were facing persecution while celebrating Valentine’s Day in India, as public displays of affection are still generally frowned upon here. But the spate of horrific killings in 2010 caused the group to expand their remit to helping India’s amorous couples who were falling foul of their own families. The Love Commandos were officially launched in July 2010 and rapidly became a national movement, with a reported 2,000 volunteers across the country and more coming forward every day.

Sanjoy Sachdev the founder of the Love Commandos

Now a year into their “mission of love”, the Commando’s helpline is flooded daily with dozens – sometimes hundreds – of calls.”When we started we never expected the problem was so big,” said Sanjoy Sachdev, the organisation’s founder. “The effort has left many of us penniless and jobless, but we are the only ones in this country giving a voice to the youth of today so we will not give up.” But money is an issue. The Love Commandos rely on individual donations of 100 rupees (£1.40) a year from their volunteers to keep going. “We need places where the khap panchayats can’t come and kill us,” says Sachdev. “We are appealing to everyone who appreciates love to help us. We are branded people. We have had death threats and our effigies burned.” Sometimes when lives are at stake the Love Commandos mount daring rescues from caste violence that sound like scripts of Bollywood films. One such involved a Brahmin girl from Faridabad, a Delhi satellite town, who wished to marry a boy of lower caste.  According to Sachdev she climbed through the window of her college classroom, negotiated a 15 foot perimeter wall and made it into a waiting getaway car just in time to evade capture by her angry brother in hot pursuit. In another, more gruelling case, the mother of Aarti an Agra girl who’d set her heart on a lower-caste boy made three attempts to sell her daughter to suitors to get her away from her love, Sanjay. The first of these sales was to a couple who bought Aarti  for 10,000 rupees (£140) “as a slave for extramarital relations”.  But Aarti protested so much that the couple called her mother to take her home, where regular beatings started again. Aarti eventually escaped and made her way to Delhi with Sanjay where they were taken to a safe house by the Love Commandos, – Sanjay had seen a news report on them just days earlier.

Asmita and Kapil eloped and were married against their parents wishes

But the majority of Love Commando cases stem from the much more common tradition of parents approving their child’s partner.”The problems cut across all barriers – not just caste, but also religion, educational background, economic status,” said Mr Sachdev. “The stories are different, but they are all about freedom of choice, which is supposed to be guaranteed in our constitution. Where do these parents derive their right to prevent that freedom?”.  On assignment for The National (article here) I heard directly about one such case from Asmita (18) and Kapil (22) a Christian couple who had eloped and were married in a secret. I met them at the Love Commando’s modest HQ in a warren of tiny streets in Old Delhi. While there were no caste issues there was an old inter-family feud that made the match unsuitable in their parents eyes and Asmita’s were disappointed that she had not waited to finish her studies before getting married. When they heard about the marriage they became ‘very angry, very aggressive’ said Asmita. ‘So we came to the Love Commandos for safe refuge and financial support but we hope to leave soon’ she concluded.

Rajveer Singh and Madri Devi who defied their parents with an inter-caste marriage

Also staying at the safe-house were driver Rajveer Singh (21) and Madri Devi (20). This Hindu couple eloped and married across castes. Rajveer’s caste is Thukur while Madri’s is Teli which is lower.  After the marriage Madri’s family tracked them down and beat Rajveer unconscious using sticks and chains. “I was unconscious for two hours. They wanted to kill me. It took two months for me to recover,” said Mr Singh. “I got in touch with the Love Commandos, and they brought us here.”

Sanjoy Sachdev is surprisingly philosophical considering what he must go through “It is not the individual parents,” said Mr Sachdev. “It is the society around them that tells them their honour is at stake. Still, we hope that day will come when love prevails over the whole universe.” I can’t help thinking that until that day comes the Love Commandos will always be busy.

If you are an Indian needing the help of the Love Commandos, you can call their helpline on 09313784375.

The organisation, which is entirely run by volunteers, is in dire need of financial support, so if you can help, please contact the same number.

With thanks and due acknowledgement to pieces by Eric Randolph, Andrew Buncombe, Gethin Chamberlain and Jason Burke.

Method: for the first image I used two flash guns to provide fill-flash in the harsh light of the afternoon. I use fill-flash a lot for environmental portraits so that I can retain detail in the sky and background while simultaneously getting well-lit subjects in the foreground. If I was to expose just for the background then the people would be under exposed – in particular you’d get dark lifeless pits where their eyes should be. If I exposed just for their faces or eyes then the background would be blown out. By using balanced fill-flash you can, ideally, get the best of both worlds. In manual exposure mode I metered off the sky and under exposed by 0.7 of a stop. Then I asked Eric Randolph to kindly hold one of my Nikon SB800 flash guns off to the right to light the right-hand side of the group while I triggered this from an SB900 (via the Nikon Creative Lighting System) that was connected to the Nikon D3s via an SC29 extension cord and hand-held by me off to camera left. I took a few test frames and the speedlights were not quite lighting the group enough so I zoomed the SB800 to 50 mm from its default 24mm to give it a better throw and bumped the power up to plus 2 stops. I also boosted the more powerful SB 900 by a stop for the frame you see here. I could not shoot any longer as the subjects were getting restive in the 36 degrees of heat and constantly wiping sweat from their eyes. Its not perfect but not bad for a two minute set-up!  All the other frames were shot in natural light.